How can I tell if my pads have become contaminated?
I have fairly new hope brakes and the pads are showing almost no wear and yet last week I was getting almost no byte. The lever still feels fairly good though.
Shane, you can clean your pads using a fine-grade sandpaper, 180 works well. Remove the pads. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and, using a circular or figure eight motion sand each pad until the surface is clean and even. After doing this your pads will require bedding in again.
Seriously though, if the pads are contaminated by brake fluid it can be hard to tell visually, but it may help to take them out and soak then rinse in isopropanol. Well and good if you can get the stuff. Dry thoroughly before using again. Wipe the rotors thoroughly with the same stuff and a clean tissue or cloth.
New pads would be an alternative.
It could be that the lack of performance was due to being wet - even disc brakes are less effective in the wet than the dry, or perhaps may have been related to the cold temperatures.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Apparently if you put them in the oven for a while the oil gets pushed to the surface and evaporates out. Don't know if this works but any excuse to use a blow torch is worth trying.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Seeming that Byrner is tucked up in bed or on the loo we can get away with this nonsense. Fergal, your sanding will simply abrade the surface, the bedding in refers to how the pads and disk 'mate', no amount of sanding will simulate this mating process.
PS. I have no idea what I am talking about, but my inner scientist assures me I am making sense.
what are you talking about, 8 rounds of an NPS is just pure stupid, not only do I not have enough money to go to them all, I don't know anywhere in Ireland west of Naas .
And besides some of them aren't up to the usual standard of race that I have made in the past..
fcuk you and your bleeding brake pads !! at least you spelt it Brake , unlike some of the pontoons on here that spell brakes - breaks..
Are they my feet ? thank God i can't drive anywhere
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
I don't know. I got bored and doused them in petrol. That'll teach that dirty oil for killing my sinterdness!
boiling in water or putting in the oven both bring oil out of the pads. sanding gets rid of the surface glazing, and is a good idea.
the discs glaze too.. so they need to be looked at.
here's what I would do.... sand pads as per Dons advice, re-install. now, pour coke over the disc and caliper/pad area. do some sharp braking manoveres. repeat a few times, then rinse the whole lot with water. I know it seems odd, but the sugar in the coke deglazes the discs, and speeds up the bedding in.
Right, on inspection front pads were very glazed so tried Dons original approach. This seemed to restore them to their original condition.
Rear pads were very unevenly worn, probably due to swapping from one bike to another and not setting them up properly on one of the occasions. Tried dons approach on these but couldn't even them out properly so tried Scrivos original approach got bored and went for the petrol.
Then tried Basils new pad approach which doesn't work at all if your sold the wrong pads. So will be putting in schorched uneven pads for this evenings spin.
How can I tell if my pads have become contaminated?
I have fairly new hope brakes and the pads are showing almost no wear and yet last week I was getting almost no byte. The lever still feels fairly good though.
Shane, you can clean your pads using a fine-grade sandpaper, 180 works well. Remove the pads. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and, using a circular or figure eight motion sand each pad until the surface is clean and even. After doing this your pads will require bedding in again.
Seriously though, if the pads are contaminated by brake fluid it can be hard to tell visually, but it may help to take them out and soak then rinse in isopropanol. Well and good if you can get the stuff. Dry thoroughly before using again. Wipe the rotors thoroughly with the same stuff and a clean tissue or cloth.
New pads would be an alternative.
It could be that the lack of performance was due to being wet - even disc brakes are less effective in the wet than the dry, or perhaps may have been related to the cold temperatures.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Apparently if you put them in the oven for a while the oil gets pushed to the surface and evaporates out. Don't know if this works but any excuse to use a blow torch is worth trying.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Seeming that Byrner is tucked up in bed or on the loo we can get away with this nonsense. Fergal, your sanding will simply abrade the surface, the bedding in refers to how the pads and disk 'mate', no amount of sanding will simulate this mating process.
PS. I have no idea what I am talking about, but my inner scientist assures me I am making sense.
what are you talking about, 8 rounds of an NPS is just pure stupid, not only do I not have enough money to go to them all, I don't know anywhere in Ireland west of Naas .
And besides some of them aren't up to the usual standard of race that I have made in the past..
fcuk you and your bleeding brake pads !! at least you spelt it Brake , unlike some of the pontoons on here that spell brakes - breaks..
Are they my feet ? thank God i can't drive anywhere
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
I don't know. I got bored and doused them in petrol. That'll teach that dirty oil for killing my sinterdness!
boiling in water or putting in the oven both bring oil out of the pads. sanding gets rid of the surface glazing, and is a good idea.
the discs glaze too.. so they need to be looked at.
here's what I would do.... sand pads as per Dons advice, re-install. now, pour coke over the disc and caliper/pad area. do some sharp braking manoveres. repeat a few times, then rinse the whole lot with water. I know it seems odd, but the sugar in the coke deglazes the discs, and speeds up the bedding in.
Right, on inspection front pads were very glazed so tried Dons original approach. This seemed to restore them to their original condition.
Rear pads were very unevenly worn, probably due to swapping from one bike to another and not setting them up properly on one of the occasions. Tried dons approach on these but couldn't even them out properly so tried Scrivos original approach got bored and went for the petrol.
Then tried Basils new pad approach which doesn't work at all if your sold the wrong pads. So will be putting in schorched uneven pads for this evenings spin.
How can I tell if my pads have become contaminated?
I have fairly new hope brakes and the pads are showing almost no wear and yet last week I was getting almost no byte. The lever still feels fairly good though.
Shane, you can clean your pads using a fine-grade sandpaper, 180 works well. Remove the pads. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and, using a circular or figure eight motion sand each pad until the surface is clean and even. After doing this your pads will require bedding in again.
Seriously though, if the pads are contaminated by brake fluid it can be hard to tell visually, but it may help to take them out and soak then rinse in isopropanol. Well and good if you can get the stuff. Dry thoroughly before using again. Wipe the rotors thoroughly with the same stuff and a clean tissue or cloth.
New pads would be an alternative.
It could be that the lack of performance was due to being wet - even disc brakes are less effective in the wet than the dry, or perhaps may have been related to the cold temperatures.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Apparently if you put them in the oven for a while the oil gets pushed to the surface and evaporates out. Don't know if this works but any excuse to use a blow torch is worth trying.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Seeming that Byrner is tucked up in bed or on the loo we can get away with this nonsense. Fergal, your sanding will simply abrade the surface, the bedding in refers to how the pads and disk 'mate', no amount of sanding will simulate this mating process.
PS. I have no idea what I am talking about, but my inner scientist assures me I am making sense.
what are you talking about, 8 rounds of an NPS is just pure stupid, not only do I not have enough money to go to them all, I don't know anywhere in Ireland west of Naas .
And besides some of them aren't up to the usual standard of race that I have made in the past..
fcuk you and your bleeding brake pads !! at least you spelt it Brake , unlike some of the pontoons on here that spell brakes - breaks..
Are they my feet ? thank God i can't drive anywhere
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
I don't know. I got bored and doused them in petrol. That'll teach that dirty oil for killing my sinterdness!
boiling in water or putting in the oven both bring oil out of the pads. sanding gets rid of the surface glazing, and is a good idea.
the discs glaze too.. so they need to be looked at.
here's what I would do.... sand pads as per Dons advice, re-install. now, pour coke over the disc and caliper/pad area. do some sharp braking manoveres. repeat a few times, then rinse the whole lot with water. I know it seems odd, but the sugar in the coke deglazes the discs, and speeds up the bedding in.
Right, on inspection front pads were very glazed so tried Dons original approach. This seemed to restore them to their original condition.
Rear pads were very unevenly worn, probably due to swapping from one bike to another and not setting them up properly on one of the occasions. Tried dons approach on these but couldn't even them out properly so tried Scrivos original approach got bored and went for the petrol.
Then tried Basils new pad approach which doesn't work at all if your sold the wrong pads. So will be putting in schorched uneven pads for this evenings spin.
How can I tell if my pads have become contaminated?
I have fairly new hope brakes and the pads are showing almost no wear and yet last week I was getting almost no byte. The lever still feels fairly good though.
Shane, you can clean your pads using a fine-grade sandpaper, 180 works well. Remove the pads. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and, using a circular or figure eight motion sand each pad until the surface is clean and even. After doing this your pads will require bedding in again.
Seriously though, if the pads are contaminated by brake fluid it can be hard to tell visually, but it may help to take them out and soak then rinse in isopropanol. Well and good if you can get the stuff. Dry thoroughly before using again. Wipe the rotors thoroughly with the same stuff and a clean tissue or cloth.
New pads would be an alternative.
It could be that the lack of performance was due to being wet - even disc brakes are less effective in the wet than the dry, or perhaps may have been related to the cold temperatures.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Apparently if you put them in the oven for a while the oil gets pushed to the surface and evaporates out. Don't know if this works but any excuse to use a blow torch is worth trying.
hmmm - I actually sandpaper new pads assuming that this actually beds them in...not the case?
I thought bedding-in was removing the glaze/fine layer of them?
I fear a reprimand coming on for such gooberish chat......
Seeming that Byrner is tucked up in bed or on the loo we can get away with this nonsense. Fergal, your sanding will simply abrade the surface, the bedding in refers to how the pads and disk 'mate', no amount of sanding will simulate this mating process.
PS. I have no idea what I am talking about, but my inner scientist assures me I am making sense.
what are you talking about, 8 rounds of an NPS is just pure stupid, not only do I not have enough money to go to them all, I don't know anywhere in Ireland west of Naas .
And besides some of them aren't up to the usual standard of race that I have made in the past..
fcuk you and your bleeding brake pads !! at least you spelt it Brake , unlike some of the pontoons on here that spell brakes - breaks..
Are they my feet ? thank God i can't drive anywhere
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
Any idea what gas mark??? 4/5...Best thing to do is leaving your breaking untill very last minute... then brake as hard as possible..If they dont work you defo need to check them out.
I don't know. I got bored and doused them in petrol. That'll teach that dirty oil for killing my sinterdness!
boiling in water or putting in the oven both bring oil out of the pads. sanding gets rid of the surface glazing, and is a good idea.
the discs glaze too.. so they need to be looked at.
here's what I would do.... sand pads as per Dons advice, re-install. now, pour coke over the disc and caliper/pad area. do some sharp braking manoveres. repeat a few times, then rinse the whole lot with water. I know it seems odd, but the sugar in the coke deglazes the discs, and speeds up the bedding in.
Right, on inspection front pads were very glazed so tried Dons original approach. This seemed to restore them to their original condition.
Rear pads were very unevenly worn, probably due to swapping from one bike to another and not setting them up properly on one of the occasions. Tried dons approach on these but couldn't even them out properly so tried Scrivos original approach got bored and went for the petrol.
Then tried Basils new pad approach which doesn't work at all if your sold the wrong pads. So will be putting in schorched uneven pads for this evenings spin.