either I've gotten fierce fat or my Lyric forks need a spring upgrade or something
seems to be sagging at about 40/45% which seems like quite a lot?
should sag be different for a coil vs air fork for the same rider?
on practice on Sat at Carrick it felt like the front of the bike was diving all over the place, halfway down I checked the oil-line on the stanchion at it was nearly touching the uppers - and that was without doing any big drops etc...
does adjusting the high-speed compression factor-in to this at all?
I haven't taken the spring out yet to check it's not broken etc.. has anyone upgraded a Lyric spring to a stiffer one? if so did it work out? as I may need a firmer spring in it
I checked TF Tuned and they have placement ones for 50 odd sterling
Just some weeks back I went to a pair of coil lyriks. Im 83 Kg and getting 20 mm sag when sitting on the bike. Standard spring. From what I read that's about where ya want to be.
Seems way to much to be blowing through all your travel, I rarely can get past 130 mm. nose heavy drops of 2/3 plus feet...
Most of whats written around on forums say RS were way off with there spring weight guides, but for the lighter....
Turn up both higher and lower cmp dampers to see if they choke the travel a bit, if they operate fine and stop quick hits compressing the fork then you know your issue lies with the spring...
sounds like u need a harder spring. Carrick is pretty flat out and compared to ur usual hardcore all mountain riding you were probably pushing the bike a bit harder than you normally do. Which might help explain why you were using all your travel without any big hits. If you look through some of the pics you'll see people bikes bottoming out on the rock roller in the middle section.
If your doing a static sag check and are suddenly getting way more sag all of a sudden it sounds like either your spring is broken (which should cause the fork to top out if you lift the front wheel off the ground) or that you have lost oil in the damper.
If your sag is correct and your blowing through your travel then put on some more high speed compression, if its wallowing or diving put on some low speed compression.
Changing the spring is fairly straight forward. The weight range any of the fork manufacturers give for springs is only a guide line. If your riding harder you will need to up the spring weight. For example most worldcup dh racers will run a spring rate at least one up from what there weight would suggest. As the forces there putting into there shocks/forks are much more than us regular riders that the spring weights are based around.
Hope this helps if ur still at a loss give me a call in the shop.
thanks for that Al
I pulled the spring out last night and it's still intact, it's a red one - which corresponds to a "medium" spring rate acc.to TFTuned
They have a "firm" one available, though I can't find what "firm" actually corresponds to in terms of how much it compresses for a given weight vs the medium one. I might give them a call and see if they can give any details
re; lost oil in the damper - this is possible, I've never actually got the fork serviced by a RockShox dealer before, I've changed the oil a few times, and just recently replaced the seals, but that's about it.
Here's a bit of a stupid question - do springs actually lose any "springiness" over time? Have had this fork about 5 years and it's been used a fair bit
One more thing - I came across this article in my searching.
Now I'm not really clued-in with all the aspects of suspension but is this article actually saying that if I remove the flood gate valve, that the fork will be more responsive?
I presume I'll lose the ability to lock-out the fork (which I rarely use anyway)
Do you know anyone that tried this before and do you think it's worth giving a go? (it sounds like you can put the flood gate valve back in afterwards if needs be)
yeah they do but not over night. Thats one of the advantages of a Ti spring is that they retain there springyness. Its not something that will happen over night though its a very slow degrading. A bit like when ur headset gets bad and you dont realise how bad it was until you put in the new one. Very few of the fork companies ever let you know what the difference is between medium and firm springs etc. But i think they probably go in 50Lbs increments. The flood gate thing is a bit of a joke on a fork like a lyric. Why would you need a lock out on a fork thats designed as a single crown dh fork. Take it out and fire it in the bin.
One more thing - I came across this article in my searching.
Now I'm not really clued-in with all the aspects of suspension but is this article actually saying that if I remove the flood gate valve, that the fork will be more responsive?
I presume I'll lose the ability to lock-out the fork (which I rarely use anyway)
Do you know anyone that tried this before and do you think it's worth giving a go? (it sounds like you can put the flood gate valve back in afterwards if needs be)
thanks lads
except for you, Bollicky Byrne, looks like you didn't get any free 10-grand wheels of yer wan last night?
and missed what the lads were saying was the best spin of the summer?
and all the stuff Damo was saying about ya being a wagon on a bike and all....
oh, you must be angry, very angry, go on - shows us how angry you are....