I've just replaced the pads on my Avid Juicy 3's but despite pushing the calipers as far back as possible I could barely get the wheel in and once in the wheel would barely turn. The space between the pads just seems too narrow. It's like the calipers haven't retracted fully . After a bit of pedalling it improved a little but the drag is still there and the wheel is far from spinning freely.
Anyone got any ideas ?
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
Are you sure you got them back all the way? I had the same problem recently and it was only when I used the box end of a spanner for leverage that I got enough clearance.
Building on what the don said you lust need to get something to use as leverage. Its a serious pain on the plus side you wont have to do it for another 6-8 months.
I applied a fair amount of force to push them back but no I can't be 100% sure they are back the whole way. Will give it another lash tommorow . thanks
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
No, but if you've managed to get the disk between the pads I'd go with it for a spin, should sort itself out. If not, put the old pads back in and use two flat head screwdrivers to force the pistons all the way back. Avids really are such a pain when it comes to changing pads, for me avids take 20-30 mins, hopes take 1-2 mins !!!!!
well...I changed a set of pads on a rear set of Avids last week without any problems, girls..I was feckin gobsmacked !! I had heard a lot about them being difficult !
I have this monster screwdriver that just wants to sort that **** out !!
I had the same problem lastnight, feckin pistons wouldn't go in far enough, a good wallop of a big screwdriver sorted that out, the pads were rubbing but a spin sorted it out! thought the reach adjust might be causing it but it wasn't so managed to lose the reach adjust screw meaning I had to have extra long fingers today :8)
Justin had exactly the same issue today, the piston would not retract and he did the whole spin with his brakes binding something fierce. Those Avids are doooodgy!
I think some of the aftermarket pads are slightly thicker. I replaced mine recently, and while I was able to get them in, it forced some fluid out under the cap. maybe you need to ensure the pad adjust adjuster on the lever is also backed off.
Another option is to sand a little off each pad, or only change one, ading the other in a few spins time when things have worn a little.
Right so - had the same prob on juicy 5s. Required brute force & the avid bleed kit. Looks like the problem was the piston over extended and would not retract, then gunk etc built up in the caliper behind the piston
I bled the brakes to clean out the gunk in the callipers and forced the pads back using the old pads & a big screw driver, taking care not to destroy the piston. Was pretty straight forward, though the bleed kits are expensive, psychological had them at the best price when I was looking about 5 months ago. hope this helps
I've found the big screw driver solution works well, also if you lightly pump the brake or more feather the brake while pushing the pistons back they will fully retract and the pads will slip in handy, time your push with when you are letting the lever go each time.
Just be careful you don't snap the little nipple off, not as much of a problem on avids.... remember the old hayes brakes.... holy jeeeeaaasus
This problem is not purely an Avid issue... I've experienced this problem with Hope's, Formula's and Avid's.
I have Avid's on all my bikes and love them for their ease of use, easily setup and easy drip free bleeding... but I'm not going to go into their merits as I know I'll just be wasting my breath...
Juicy's along with 90% of disc brakes use Dot fluid...
Dot fluid is hygroscopic.. meaning over time it absorbs water..
So.. while your pads wear out, your pistons are moving forward to compensate the wear.. because the Dot fluid has been absorbing moisture over time there is actually 'more' fluid in the system than when you started..
When you go to change the pads you will need to open the bleed valve to release the excess fluid.. Once you do this the pads / pistons will easily push back into place without any issues whatsoever...
Because of the hygroscopic properties of Dot fluid it is recommended to bleed your brakes at least once a year.. regardless of whether they actually need to be bled or not..
Shimano and Magura use mineral oil rather than Dot fluid... mineral oil does not absorb moisture like Dot fluid..
I've just replaced the pads on my Avid Juicy 3's but despite pushing the calipers as far back as possible I could barely get the wheel in and once in the wheel would barely turn. The space between the pads just seems too narrow. It's like the calipers haven't retracted fully . After a bit of pedalling it improved a little but the drag is still there and the wheel is far from spinning freely.
Anyone got any ideas ?
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
Are you sure you got them back all the way? I had the same problem recently and it was only when I used the box end of a spanner for leverage that I got enough clearance.
Building on what the don said you lust need to get something to use as leverage. Its a serious pain on the plus side you wont have to do it for another 6-8 months.
I applied a fair amount of force to push them back but no I can't be 100% sure they are back the whole way. Will give it another lash tommorow . thanks
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
No, but if you've managed to get the disk between the pads I'd go with it for a spin, should sort itself out. If not, put the old pads back in and use two flat head screwdrivers to force the pistons all the way back. Avids really are such a pain when it comes to changing pads, for me avids take 20-30 mins, hopes take 1-2 mins !!!!!
well...I changed a set of pads on a rear set of Avids last week without any problems, girls..I was feckin gobsmacked !! I had heard a lot about them being difficult !
I have this monster screwdriver that just wants to sort that **** out !!
I had the same problem lastnight, feckin pistons wouldn't go in far enough, a good wallop of a big screwdriver sorted that out, the pads were rubbing but a spin sorted it out! thought the reach adjust might be causing it but it wasn't so managed to lose the reach adjust screw meaning I had to have extra long fingers today :8)
Justin had exactly the same issue today, the piston would not retract and he did the whole spin with his brakes binding something fierce. Those Avids are doooodgy!
I think some of the aftermarket pads are slightly thicker. I replaced mine recently, and while I was able to get them in, it forced some fluid out under the cap. maybe you need to ensure the pad adjust adjuster on the lever is also backed off.
Another option is to sand a little off each pad, or only change one, ading the other in a few spins time when things have worn a little.
Right so - had the same prob on juicy 5s. Required brute force & the avid bleed kit. Looks like the problem was the piston over extended and would not retract, then gunk etc built up in the caliper behind the piston
I bled the brakes to clean out the gunk in the callipers and forced the pads back using the old pads & a big screw driver, taking care not to destroy the piston. Was pretty straight forward, though the bleed kits are expensive, psychological had them at the best price when I was looking about 5 months ago. hope this helps
I've found the big screw driver solution works well, also if you lightly pump the brake or more feather the brake while pushing the pistons back they will fully retract and the pads will slip in handy, time your push with when you are letting the lever go each time.
Just be careful you don't snap the little nipple off, not as much of a problem on avids.... remember the old hayes brakes.... holy jeeeeaaasus
This problem is not purely an Avid issue... I've experienced this problem with Hope's, Formula's and Avid's.
I have Avid's on all my bikes and love them for their ease of use, easily setup and easy drip free bleeding... but I'm not going to go into their merits as I know I'll just be wasting my breath...
Juicy's along with 90% of disc brakes use Dot fluid...
Dot fluid is hygroscopic.. meaning over time it absorbs water..
So.. while your pads wear out, your pistons are moving forward to compensate the wear.. because the Dot fluid has been absorbing moisture over time there is actually 'more' fluid in the system than when you started..
When you go to change the pads you will need to open the bleed valve to release the excess fluid.. Once you do this the pads / pistons will easily push back into place without any issues whatsoever...
Because of the hygroscopic properties of Dot fluid it is recommended to bleed your brakes at least once a year.. regardless of whether they actually need to be bled or not..
Shimano and Magura use mineral oil rather than Dot fluid... mineral oil does not absorb moisture like Dot fluid..
I've just replaced the pads on my Avid Juicy 3's but despite pushing the calipers as far back as possible I could barely get the wheel in and once in the wheel would barely turn. The space between the pads just seems too narrow. It's like the calipers haven't retracted fully . After a bit of pedalling it improved a little but the drag is still there and the wheel is far from spinning freely.
Anyone got any ideas ?
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
Are you sure you got them back all the way? I had the same problem recently and it was only when I used the box end of a spanner for leverage that I got enough clearance.
Building on what the don said you lust need to get something to use as leverage. Its a serious pain on the plus side you wont have to do it for another 6-8 months.
I applied a fair amount of force to push them back but no I can't be 100% sure they are back the whole way. Will give it another lash tommorow . thanks
Is it possible that the calipers can't retract any further because the fluid has nowhere to go ?
thanks.
No, but if you've managed to get the disk between the pads I'd go with it for a spin, should sort itself out. If not, put the old pads back in and use two flat head screwdrivers to force the pistons all the way back. Avids really are such a pain when it comes to changing pads, for me avids take 20-30 mins, hopes take 1-2 mins !!!!!
well...I changed a set of pads on a rear set of Avids last week without any problems, girls..I was feckin gobsmacked !! I had heard a lot about them being difficult !
I have this monster screwdriver that just wants to sort that **** out !!
I had the same problem lastnight, feckin pistons wouldn't go in far enough, a good wallop of a big screwdriver sorted that out, the pads were rubbing but a spin sorted it out! thought the reach adjust might be causing it but it wasn't so managed to lose the reach adjust screw meaning I had to have extra long fingers today :8)
Justin had exactly the same issue today, the piston would not retract and he did the whole spin with his brakes binding something fierce. Those Avids are doooodgy!
I think some of the aftermarket pads are slightly thicker. I replaced mine recently, and while I was able to get them in, it forced some fluid out under the cap. maybe you need to ensure the pad adjust adjuster on the lever is also backed off.
Another option is to sand a little off each pad, or only change one, ading the other in a few spins time when things have worn a little.
Right so - had the same prob on juicy 5s. Required brute force & the avid bleed kit. Looks like the problem was the piston over extended and would not retract, then gunk etc built up in the caliper behind the piston
I bled the brakes to clean out the gunk in the callipers and forced the pads back using the old pads & a big screw driver, taking care not to destroy the piston. Was pretty straight forward, though the bleed kits are expensive, psychological had them at the best price when I was looking about 5 months ago. hope this helps
I've found the big screw driver solution works well, also if you lightly pump the brake or more feather the brake while pushing the pistons back they will fully retract and the pads will slip in handy, time your push with when you are letting the lever go each time.
Just be careful you don't snap the little nipple off, not as much of a problem on avids.... remember the old hayes brakes.... holy jeeeeaaasus
This problem is not purely an Avid issue... I've experienced this problem with Hope's, Formula's and Avid's.
I have Avid's on all my bikes and love them for their ease of use, easily setup and easy drip free bleeding... but I'm not going to go into their merits as I know I'll just be wasting my breath...
Juicy's along with 90% of disc brakes use Dot fluid...
Dot fluid is hygroscopic.. meaning over time it absorbs water..
So.. while your pads wear out, your pistons are moving forward to compensate the wear.. because the Dot fluid has been absorbing moisture over time there is actually 'more' fluid in the system than when you started..
When you go to change the pads you will need to open the bleed valve to release the excess fluid.. Once you do this the pads / pistons will easily push back into place without any issues whatsoever...
Because of the hygroscopic properties of Dot fluid it is recommended to bleed your brakes at least once a year.. regardless of whether they actually need to be bled or not..
Shimano and Magura use mineral oil rather than Dot fluid... mineral oil does not absorb moisture like Dot fluid..