Anyone else having a devil of of a job getting these bled? I'm tired of bating down big mountains and having the rear lever travel increase, moving bite points are very unsettling to someone who does not like surprises.
Deore used to be bombproof, I'm very close to testing that theory.
Get yourself some nice, easy to maintain, easy to bleed Avids...
When they need a quick bleed... just screw in the syringe to the master cylinder bleed port.. pull out the bubbles... let go of the plunger.. all the air bubbles have now been replaced with fluid.. unscrew syringe... job's done in less than 2 minutes..
nonsense and bolloxology..I have never had no problems with those brakes..incompetent bleeding technique is the cause..
I have to agree with Macilerky though..bled some Avid Elixers the other night with a bottle of Shiraz inside me..no problem..damn it !!
if you do it right then theres never a problem..
Dot or mineral oil.... Doesn't matter one tiny bit as far as I'm concerned.. once the brake is bled and fully functional it makes absolutely zero difference..
The fact is... Avid's are just much much easier to maintain and bleed than any Shimano brake I've ever used..
No need to remove silly little caps, no need for a convoluted bleed kit with stupid little clamps, bottles, clips and sh!te..
With Avid's its just two syringes... with screw in fittings at both ends.. the end result is drip free, hassle free bleeding every single time.. in a matter of minutes..
I have Avid's on all my bikes... Elixir's and Juicy's... I wouldn't even consider any Shimano brake over them.. full stop...!!
To be honest Don I don't really notice a difference in performance between the Juicy's and Elixir's... both work flawlessly and I don't have any issues with either of them..
But if I was going to buy a new set of brakes I'd go for Elixir's... only because I reckon the Juicy range is slowly being phased out..
shimanos couldnt be easier to bleed no need for fancy kits. Yes avids are handy too but you have to bleed them more and i personally hate the lever shape of the juicys. Formula and shimano brakes for me only. Don you need to unscrew the lever stroke adjuster screw before bleeding. Not out completely but untill u feel a bit of a click. Then take of the top cap and pump the lever a few times and watch the bubbles rise. Once they stop and the lever feels solid your done. Dont forget to keep the fluid topped up.
shimanos couldnt be easier to bleed no need for fancy kits. Yes avids are handy too but you have to bleed them more and i personally hate the lever shape of the juicys. Formula and shimano brakes for me only. Don you need to unscrew the lever stroke adjuster screw before bleeding. Not out completely but untill u feel a bit of a click. Then take of the top cap and pump the lever a few times and watch the bubbles rise. Once they stop and the lever feels solid your done. Dont forget to keep the fluid topped up.
Your problem is almost certainly air in lines , which is very hard to get out when pumping from top to bottom due to tiny master cylinder and tendency for bubbles to rise.
Best method of all.....do it backwards:
-Get a syringe from the doctor / vet etc , a big one.
-Take off the cap on the master cylinder and level out the lever (horizontal on bars)
- Fill the syringe with brake fluid and connect it using a short lenth of rubber hose to the bleed nipple on the caliper.
- Crack open the bleed nipple and fill the system from the bottom up. Dont worry about introducing a few bubbles form the line at the start , they will soon pop out at the top.
- Put waaaaay more fluid through than you need to fill the master cylinder .. let it overflow onto a rag.
- Close the bleed nipple.
Job is now done , just replace master cylinder cap. This method should work on any brakes . If have used it on Shimano and Magura and Landrover ... works every time !
